I've always had a fascination with propolis, sometimes referred to as bee glue. It is a sticky resinous substance the bees collect from new growth buds of a variety of different plants. In spite of the fact that it is collected from diverse sources, the properties of propolis are fairly constant. The color can vary somewhat depending on when and where it was collected, but it remains a sticky anti-microbial secondary building material for the bees.
I had read in Beekeeping for Dummies about a propolis varnish used by an individual who does repairs to museum quality violins. It mentioned the ingredients and proportions, but failed to give sufficiently detailed instructions on how to make the stuff. I poked around on the internet and stumbled onto a Canoe forum where someone had posted the instructions I was seeking. The varnish had the same ingredients in the same proportions as the recipe in Beekeeping for Dummies. The person who had posted the recipe raved about the durability and water proof nature of this varnish, both important characteristics for varnishing wooden canoes and paddles.
The directions are fairly simple. Combine 4 ounces blond shellac, 1 ounce manila copal, and one ounce of propolis with one pint of denatured alcohol into a jar with a lid. Shake the jar frequently over the course of a week or more until all of the ingredients are dissolved. The shellac dissolved quickly, while the manila copal and propolis took longer. Once everything is dissolved that is going to dissolve, strain the varnish through a nylon stocking to remove any remaining debris. I decided to dewax the propolis prior to using it. Propolis contains about 35% beeswax and I was unsure if that would cause problems with the varnish. I did this using a number ten can and a small canning kettle to make a double boiler. I put about 8 ounces of propolis in the can, filled it with water, and cooked that in the double boiler for about four hours. After the can and water cooled, I was left with a layer of beeswax on the surface and the propolis on the bottom. Propolis is heavier than water while beeswax is lighter than water. I don't know if that step was really necessary as I don't believe beeswax will dissolve in alcohol. However, it did result in less debris to strain out at the end. In order to expedite the dissolving of the propolis, I put the dewaxed propolis into the freezer for several hours. Once it was very cold, I put the propolis into a bag and beat on it with a mallet to shatter it into tiny fragments.
I purchased the blond shellac and manila copal resin from Woodfinishing Enterprises, 1729 N 68th Street, Wauwatosa, WI 53213, telephone (414) 774-1724. They have a wonderful online catalog featuring an incredible array of exotic substances useful to woodworkers. I thought their prices were quite reasonable.
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| Blond Shellac |
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| Manila Copal resin |
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| Propolis |
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| Propolis Varnish in progress |
I made some propolis varnish this past summer and used it to varnish some wooden folding chairs a friend had given to me. The chairs looked pretty ratty before I varnished them. My wife even asked if she could burn them. After just one coat of the propolis varnish the chairs were magically transformed from junk to something Linda would actually let me bring into the house. I accidentally left one of the chairs outside and it rained. When I discovered the wet chair, there was no opaqueness and the water was beaded up nicely. I also used the propolis varnish to put a nice finish on my Ulster Observation Hive. I have a little fiberglass rowboat I'm in the process of refinishing. I intend to use the propolis varnish on the seats and all the wooden trim.
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| Folding wooden chair with one coat of propolis varnish |
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